Received an application from a prospective new technician today, who says he has 'tons of experience', and used to work in the aviation industry. To hire, or not to hire: What do you think?
Sunday, October 14, 2012
New technician ?
Received an application from a prospective new technician today, who says he has 'tons of experience', and used to work in the aviation industry. To hire, or not to hire: What do you think?
Monday, October 8, 2012
Customer quote of the day:
“The $2,500 we paid today to put my car back in top shape is less than the sales tax would have been on a new car”
( husband of happy customer )
Sunday, October 7, 2012
A new headlight costs how much ?!!
How much will it cost to replace one headlight on my Volvo?
Well, that depends....
In the best case we install a new “long-life” bulb and we’re done ( <$40 )
However, starting around 2004, some cars came equipped with bi-Xenon, high intensity discharge (HID) lighting systems, and these bulbs are $125 each.
However, Volvo has a service bulletin regarding rapid bulb burnout that introduces a resistor kit, so if you don’t already have one, it may be a good idea ( $150 with 2 new non-Xenon bulbs)
However, we will always check to see if the reflector that surrounds the bulb is not broken. If it’s broken and wobbling then again expect rapid bulb burnout ( and $525 for one new headlight assembly)
And lastly, one or two time a year we discover the ECM ( electronic control module ) that sends the signal to the headlight has also failed. If so, then after about an hour of diagnosis, $750 to $1,250 ( per side)
Our suggestion for smart maintenance is :
a) replace faulty headlight parts as soon as possible
b) always change bulbs in pairs
b) install the headlight resistor kit where applicable
Well, that depends....
In the best case we install a new “long-life” bulb and we’re done ( <$40 )
However, starting around 2004, some cars came equipped with bi-Xenon, high intensity discharge (HID) lighting systems, and these bulbs are $125 each.
However, Volvo has a service bulletin regarding rapid bulb burnout that introduces a resistor kit, so if you don’t already have one, it may be a good idea ( $150 with 2 new non-Xenon bulbs)
However, we will always check to see if the reflector that surrounds the bulb is not broken. If it’s broken and wobbling then again expect rapid bulb burnout ( and $525 for one new headlight assembly)
And lastly, one or two time a year we discover the ECM ( electronic control module ) that sends the signal to the headlight has also failed. If so, then after about an hour of diagnosis, $750 to $1,250 ( per side)
Our suggestion for smart maintenance is :
a) replace faulty headlight parts as soon as possible
b) always change bulbs in pairs
b) install the headlight resistor kit where applicable
Thursday, July 5, 2012
Volvo Free Software Update Available
As some of our customers have already heard, Volvo recently created a program offering lifetime complimentary software upgrades for most 1999 and newer cars ( early model S40, V40 and C70 are excluded )
Why do I need new software? Because software evolves and makes your car more "fault tolerant", for one. As you probably know, there are many small computers in today’s cars. And like most computers, the software might need an update from time to time. Technical advancements move quickly nowadays, so it's difficult to specify exactly what an update in a particular car entails. It may involve things like optimizing the engine management system for increased efficiency, optimizing the climate control for airflow and temperature management or improving automatic transmission gear shifting quality.
Volvo is continually developing new software and providing updates is a way for us to ensure that your car is operating at its best. Over the last few years, Volvo has taken service to new levels and now, Volvo will offer owners complimentary software updates for their late model Volvos. The program "Service for Life", applies to nearly all Volvo models made over the last 10 years.
Volvo’s new Service for Life program is good for any of its covered products, even if the vehicle is in its second and third owner. This should help the resale value of these vehicles if second owners can get the same service as a first owner.
In a nutshell, what you need to know is Popular Mechanix can offer this complimentary program, “Volvo Service For Life” for you, in our shop, right now.
As always, please schedule an appointment, either by phone or our DemandForce website Thank you for your ongoing business & support!
Why do I need new software? Because software evolves and makes your car more "fault tolerant", for one. As you probably know, there are many small computers in today’s cars. And like most computers, the software might need an update from time to time. Technical advancements move quickly nowadays, so it's difficult to specify exactly what an update in a particular car entails. It may involve things like optimizing the engine management system for increased efficiency, optimizing the climate control for airflow and temperature management or improving automatic transmission gear shifting quality.
Volvo is continually developing new software and providing updates is a way for us to ensure that your car is operating at its best. Over the last few years, Volvo has taken service to new levels and now, Volvo will offer owners complimentary software updates for their late model Volvos. The program "Service for Life", applies to nearly all Volvo models made over the last 10 years.
Volvo’s new Service for Life program is good for any of its covered products, even if the vehicle is in its second and third owner. This should help the resale value of these vehicles if second owners can get the same service as a first owner.
In a nutshell, what you need to know is Popular Mechanix can offer this complimentary program, “Volvo Service For Life” for you, in our shop, right now.
As always, please schedule an appointment, either by phone or our DemandForce website Thank you for your ongoing business & support!
Saturday, March 5, 2011
Thermostat Replacement Thinking & Strategy
The thermostat on your car is basically a small valve inside the engine that regulates the flow of coolant. In most cases, when the thermostat fails, ( and they all fail eventually) it fails in the closed position and the engine overheats.
Option 1:
Replace the thermostat proactively at time and place of your choosing convenient for you.
Total cost for parts & labor approx. $250
Option 2:
Drive the car until the thermostat fails and the engine overheats.
Towing cost: approx. $100
Replace cylinder head gasket approx. $3,000
Or, maybe, replace the engine approx. $7,500
Some thermostat facts:
* disappointingly, the manufacturer lists no mandatory replacement interval for the engine thermostat.
* we can’t tell by looking at it how long a thermostat will last
Summary:
Except for oil changes, thermostat replacement is our #1 recommendation for smart, cost effective preventive maintenance.
Our shop’s Strategy & Procedure:
During your initial visit we will look for records and ask if the thermostat has been replaced. If we can’t say for certain its already been replaced, then will suggest it as smart preventive maintenance. We will document this in your repair history.
If we can’t determine for certain its already been done, and our customer declines to replace it preventively , then we will raise the issue again (nag) at each subsequent visit.
The cynics analysis:
Repair shops are better off saying nothing, waiting for the engine to overheat and then enjoying a nice juicy repair job.
Unfortunately, what usually happens is that:
a) customer is furious that “we let this happen”
b) they sell the car as scrap and buy a new car
c) we lose the customer
So, in summary, both the customer and the repair shop are better off with course of action #1: Proactive thermostat replacement
Option 1:
Replace the thermostat proactively at time and place of your choosing convenient for you.
Total cost for parts & labor approx. $250
Option 2:
Drive the car until the thermostat fails and the engine overheats.
Towing cost: approx. $100
Replace cylinder head gasket approx. $3,000
Or, maybe, replace the engine approx. $7,500
Some thermostat facts:
* disappointingly, the manufacturer lists no mandatory replacement interval for the engine thermostat.
* we can’t tell by looking at it how long a thermostat will last
Summary:
Except for oil changes, thermostat replacement is our #1 recommendation for smart, cost effective preventive maintenance.
Our shop’s Strategy & Procedure:
During your initial visit we will look for records and ask if the thermostat has been replaced. If we can’t say for certain its already been replaced, then will suggest it as smart preventive maintenance. We will document this in your repair history.
If we can’t determine for certain its already been done, and our customer declines to replace it preventively , then we will raise the issue again (nag) at each subsequent visit.
The cynics analysis:
Repair shops are better off saying nothing, waiting for the engine to overheat and then enjoying a nice juicy repair job.
Unfortunately, what usually happens is that:
a) customer is furious that “we let this happen”
b) they sell the car as scrap and buy a new car
c) we lose the customer
So, in summary, both the customer and the repair shop are better off with course of action #1: Proactive thermostat replacement
Saturday, September 18, 2010
The “Unfixable Volvo S40"
(or: How I paid $1,000 to buy someone else's headache )
September 15, 2010
A new customer called with what he described as an annoying, frustrating and so far unfixable problem with his 2001 Volvo S40.
He has already taken it to the dealer five times, without success.
Problem is, sometimes, the car just would not start, turns the key, total silence.
I told him that an intermittent problem the Volvo dealer can’t fix on five tries is about the biggest red flag I can think of for potential customer dissatisfaction. I gave him a copy of my “Intermittent Letter”, which is a brief outline of how tough this might be.
One concern I share with him is that no matter what we try, can’t tell if its fixed until after a multi-day test drive. Another concern I have is that the car may have more than one problem.
He related what had been done so far and presented me with a stack of repairs orders and service records from the Volvo dealer. He asked if I could think of anything they hadn’t tried yet. Yes, the immobilizer ring might be capable of causing this. Rare, but possible. OK, throw one in.
I agreed, that in this case, “throwing parts at the problem” made sense. Troubleshooting time would be minimized, and we had a cool customer who had a good grasp of the difficulties involved.
Two weeks later, he’s back, problem still not fixed. Extremely frustrating problem, and he feels that in the worst case potentially dangerous. Did I want to buy this car? Ok, yes, and I did, at a discounted price, sort of taking into account future repair costs.
Now I am the proud but concerned owner of nice looking little car that is exuding more than a faint odor of lemon ...
Let the battle begin:
Installed fuel pressure gauges, scan tool, installed a remote starter button in the passenger compartment, started driving the car to work and home each day.
Did I mention that there were not any DTC’s ? Even in 2001 this car was equipped with fairly sophisticated on-board diagnostics (OBD-II) but it has not thrown any codes. So either we are dealing with a faulty part that’s not being monitored, or, the monitoring system itself is faulty. Sweet this is not.
2/12/10:
new spark plugs, coil packs, tightened exhaust manifold gaskets
Drove car daily, not going too far, staying with in short-range-tow-truck distance.
3/10/10:
engine de-sludge ( not the cause of no-start, but needed ), fuel filter,
3/10/10, finally some problem! Engine would not crank over ( total silence when key turned )
- would not crank via remote starter
- would not crank in any gear position
- also would not crank with spare key ( yes, I it’s possible for micro-chipped key to fail )
- installed test light
- Discovered test light erratic
- Discovered loose electrical connector, out of sight below brake fluid reservoir, and repaired as needed
- opened connector, sprayed with connector cleaner as needed
- crossed all fingers !
After twenty more days of daily city driving, still no problems and I’m pretty sure we’ve fixed it. Now I’m confident enough to start loaning out the car to a few customers.
3/31/10:
The car comes back into the shop of a Thursday afternoon about 5 pm and is parked in bay #2. Just because it’s convenient, I decide to drive it home, but, no start, no crank. This is perfect and I am delighted!
Finally it won’t start, the problem is repeatable, its in the shop, all test equipment still installed, and best of all the auto repair gods and decided it should not break down in the rain, on the bay bridge.
15 minutes of troubleshooting reveal a failed neutral safety switch ( the sensor lets you start the car only if park or neutral has been selected) . The next day we order and install the part ( 3 hour job ). Now I’m really certain we’ve hit the nail on the head. Just to be sure, I drive the car to and from work for another 2 weeks.
Hopefully gentle reader, I’ve been able to convey to you how difficult it can be to predict in advance the cost in labor and parts and inconvenience when dealing with a no-code intermittent.
September 15, 2010
A new customer called with what he described as an annoying, frustrating and so far unfixable problem with his 2001 Volvo S40.
He has already taken it to the dealer five times, without success.
Problem is, sometimes, the car just would not start, turns the key, total silence.
I told him that an intermittent problem the Volvo dealer can’t fix on five tries is about the biggest red flag I can think of for potential customer dissatisfaction. I gave him a copy of my “Intermittent Letter”, which is a brief outline of how tough this might be.
One concern I share with him is that no matter what we try, can’t tell if its fixed until after a multi-day test drive. Another concern I have is that the car may have more than one problem.
He related what had been done so far and presented me with a stack of repairs orders and service records from the Volvo dealer. He asked if I could think of anything they hadn’t tried yet. Yes, the immobilizer ring might be capable of causing this. Rare, but possible. OK, throw one in.
I agreed, that in this case, “throwing parts at the problem” made sense. Troubleshooting time would be minimized, and we had a cool customer who had a good grasp of the difficulties involved.
Two weeks later, he’s back, problem still not fixed. Extremely frustrating problem, and he feels that in the worst case potentially dangerous. Did I want to buy this car? Ok, yes, and I did, at a discounted price, sort of taking into account future repair costs.
Now I am the proud but concerned owner of nice looking little car that is exuding more than a faint odor of lemon ...
Let the battle begin:
Installed fuel pressure gauges, scan tool, installed a remote starter button in the passenger compartment, started driving the car to work and home each day.
Did I mention that there were not any DTC’s ? Even in 2001 this car was equipped with fairly sophisticated on-board diagnostics (OBD-II) but it has not thrown any codes. So either we are dealing with a faulty part that’s not being monitored, or, the monitoring system itself is faulty. Sweet this is not.
2/12/10:
new spark plugs, coil packs, tightened exhaust manifold gaskets
Drove car daily, not going too far, staying with in short-range-tow-truck distance.
3/10/10:
engine de-sludge ( not the cause of no-start, but needed ), fuel filter,
3/10/10, finally some problem! Engine would not crank over ( total silence when key turned )
- would not crank via remote starter
- would not crank in any gear position
- also would not crank with spare key ( yes, I it’s possible for micro-chipped key to fail )
- installed test light
- Discovered test light erratic
- Discovered loose electrical connector, out of sight below brake fluid reservoir, and repaired as needed
- opened connector, sprayed with connector cleaner as needed
- crossed all fingers !
After twenty more days of daily city driving, still no problems and I’m pretty sure we’ve fixed it. Now I’m confident enough to start loaning out the car to a few customers.
3/31/10:
The car comes back into the shop of a Thursday afternoon about 5 pm and is parked in bay #2. Just because it’s convenient, I decide to drive it home, but, no start, no crank. This is perfect and I am delighted!
Finally it won’t start, the problem is repeatable, its in the shop, all test equipment still installed, and best of all the auto repair gods and decided it should not break down in the rain, on the bay bridge.
15 minutes of troubleshooting reveal a failed neutral safety switch ( the sensor lets you start the car only if park or neutral has been selected) . The next day we order and install the part ( 3 hour job ). Now I’m really certain we’ve hit the nail on the head. Just to be sure, I drive the car to and from work for another 2 weeks.
Hopefully gentle reader, I’ve been able to convey to you how difficult it can be to predict in advance the cost in labor and parts and inconvenience when dealing with a no-code intermittent.
Tuesday, June 22, 2010
Quote of the day ...
“I just paid more today to have a spare key made than I paid for my first car”
60 something owner of a 2004 Volvo S60, after receiving his bill for a new micro-chip equipped, software download required ignition key.
60 something owner of a 2004 Volvo S60, after receiving his bill for a new micro-chip equipped, software download required ignition key.
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